Balmorhea State Park: Go diving in the West Texas desert

Somehow the concept of SCUBA diving in the desert doesn’t make logical sense. And yet, that’s exactly what happens every day at the Balmorhea State Park in the Chihuahuan Desert of West Texas. It’s the ideal vacation for families that want to combine water fun with on-land adventure, but you’re going to have to drive quite a ways to experience it.

One of the world’s most unique vacation experiences is a long way from anywhere, but once you’re there, you’ll agree it was worth the drive.

The artesian pool at Balmorhea State Park is the largest manmade, spring-fed pool in the world and is favored by divers for its 70-degree year-round temperatures. Photo by Bob Vernon

Located about 320 miles west of San Antonio and about 170 miles southeast of El Paso, the little town of Toyahvale is mostly overlooked by travelers racing along Interstate 10 through West Texas. But for those in the know, a slight detour at Exit #206 can lead to one of the most amazing experiences around.

Balmorhea State Park

That’s because this area of Texas, while appearing mostly dusty and desolate, holds one of the best-kept secrets for swimmers, divers, historians and stargazers. It’s Balmorhea State Park, part of the Texas Parks & Wildlife System. The park features 46 grassy acres, towering cottonwoods that shade canals, wetlands, and an enormous (1.75 acres) enclosed spring-fed pool.  And when I say enormous, I mean it. This V-shaped pool, built in the mid-1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, covers 1.75 acres and enjoys a flow of 28 million gallons a day of brisk (74 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit) crystal-clear water from the San Solomon Spring to create a refreshing oasis for friendly finned creatures and fun-seeking human visitors.

A haven for SCUBA divers

Balmorhea is a haven for SCUBA divers who love the clarity even at a 25-foot depth. And though the pool outwardly looks like a regular swimming pool, don’t be deceived; while the decking, banks and structures are man-made, the water and everything below the surface is all-natural. That includes the fish, turtles and other aquatic life. Imagine diving from the high-dive board (a rarity at any public swimming pool these days) and plunging into the cool waters of the San Solomon only to discover you are sharing it with endangered species such as the Comanche Springs Pupfish and Pecos Gambusia.  The park waters form a protected environment for them, as well as other non-game fish and Texas soft-shelled spiny turtles. For more on diving at Balmorhea Springs, check out this great Desert USA article by Yvonne Lanelli. And be sure to check out this video by the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department.

Swimming, camping & retro lodging

In addition to swimming and camping, the San Solomon Courts offer motel-style retro lodging built by the CCC with a Southwestern adobe look; most units have kitchens. Canals along the Courts lead to a restored ciénega (desert wetland), where a window built below ground provides a turtle-eye view of the underwater world. Opened as a state park in 1968, Balmorhea State Park is situated in the foothills of the Davis Mountains southwest of the town of Balmorhea.

Spring-fed fun

San Solomon Springs has provided water for travelers for thousands of years. In fact, artifacts indicate Indians used the spring extensively before white men came to the area. Back in 1849, the springs were called Mescalero Springs for the Mescalero Apache Indians who watered their horses along its banks. The present name was given by the first settlers, Mexican farmers who used the water for their crops and hand-dug the first irrigation canals. Visitors can enjoy swimming, picnicking, and camping. And because this is rural Texas, an honor box is located at the park entrance for those arriving after hours. SCUBA divers must meet safety regulations.

Fun on dry land

For non-aquatic travelers, or for the times when you’ve had enough of the pool, this area of Texas offers plenty to see and do. The nearby Davis Mountains offer an escape from the Texas heat, and the University of Texas‘ McDonald Observatory provides amazing views of the starts through some of the darkest skies in the United States. If you’re a fan of our feathered friends, then you’ll enjoy Balmorhea for sightings of phoebes, rails, kingfishers, sparrows, quail, wrens, hawks, pigeons, hummingbirds, roadrunners and many others. So, if you’re seeking something unique that the entire family can enjoy, consider Balmorhea State Park. There’s no doubt that you’ll enjoy the diving if you can survive the driving.